Experimentation and continuous research in developing new techniques pass for Issey Miyake’s from the design of the garments in which fashion speaks the same language of product and graphic design. New forms, created using a 3D texture never workedbefore, and a circular plissé made entirely by hand, show the fundamentalinspiration: giants trees in a quiet forest, whose growth rings will testifytheir long and exciting life. The design runs without limits in jackets, shirtsand dresses dynamically shaped, imagined to be transformed into circular formswhen placed on a flat surface. The silhouette constructed in this way areplenty, with jacquard effect, stacking techniques of multiple fabrics andprints. The volumes grow and change: Miyake patents the “SteamStretch” technique, which using steam heat to shape the fabric withelastic wires in both the warp and the weft, deforms obtaining volumes andmovements from one cut of material. Vivid is the Japanese dimension, as usual,in curved plissé, fil rouge of the entire collection, a sort of evolution ofthe origami concept which through the folds close in compact forms, and inventnew shapes and chromatic effects when worn. On the right the video with which Miyake, in collaboration with the video-maker Lisa Paclet, evokes the majestic dynamic shapes of its forest, portraying two almost beast figures that move with the rhythm and the impulses of the creatures that live in the wild. Dolly-zoom is the technique used to create a sense of depth through movement,without compromising the image size of the clothes but shaking the perceptionof the viewer.

 

Enrico Longo speaking   18 Jul 2014   /   © All rights reserved