The hat in every FW 2018-19 collection features a distinctive element that characterizes the outfit by reinforcing the stylistic concept. Protection, a motorcycle helmet like that of A.F. Vandevorst or one from the space age in the visionary version by Maison Margiela, ready for every eventuality and protection against any adverse weather conditions – or, even harmful radiation in the diving-suit version from Walter van Beirendonck’s apocalyptic collection, where only the eyes and mouth are visible. Artistic from Miyake and Chalayan, ethnic from Missoni in a neo-grunge way, or creative at any cost from Tsumori Chisato. The idea is diverse and multifaceted. If on the one had the need to protect ourselves prevails, on the other, there is a desire for a distinction that is cultured, refined – pervaded by a nostalgic sweetness that belongs to a now-forgotten gesture and respect. They lend themselves to completing the stunning black velvet necklines of Saint Laurent and bring us back to the movies of the ‘50s, which has left us with the charm of Chanel couture’s veils to create mystery. For another, oriental-style version, one finds a hybrid with the turban from Westwood or with the hijab as done by Calvin Klein and Gucci, the idea of a veil that frames the face, like that of a Mexican Madonna of the sacred heart. Integration between different cultures and desire to believe strongly in the sacred, in the political, in the value of cultural tradition. And to believe in joy, in that playful Hip-Hop world so well represented by Nicopanda and Y3 as well as by Marni, Kenzo, Opening Ceremony, Facetasm, and Undercover – a variation that starts from a woolen hat with a pom-pom, moves on to the cloche and finishes with broad, colorful, velvet brims with a surprisingly ironic tone. cover: Martin Margiela
